On a big enough radial saw, they can actually 'run across at you' if you're trying to cut too fast - ONCE was all it took for me to lock THAT 'no-no' into my head Things to remember - just because your radial saw AND table saw both use 10' blades, you definitely should NOT swap blades between them - radial and miter saws cut from the TOP, and have a tendency to LIFT the board because they cut from UNDER the board - for this reason, those saws need a blade with a NEGATIVE hook angle to reduce board lifting AND reduce kickback.

The 12' cost me $10, guy bought it and ended up moving (job related) into a smaller place and was cleaning house before the move. I also have a 10' and another 12', both CL finds for a TOTAL of $60 - both run and work fine. I've had a Craftsman 12' 'Commercial' radial saw since 1972, it's still in my shop right next to the 12' Dewalt sliding miter saw. Why will a radial arm saw cross cut wood so nicely but do such a horrible job of rip cutting wood (Dulls blades quickly, cuts slow, burns the wood, uses too much power, etc.) and a table saw do so much better?' If you THINK first, you won'd do things like holding a board in your hand directly under where you're drilling a HOLE in the board 'A question for those in the know I have wondered about for years. Main reason for the recall is NOT having the entire blade covered - IMO, anybody who uses ANY power tool without understanding the physics involved, runs the risk of injury.

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